Hustler Antenna Used on Motorhome
This antenna can be mounted on top of a motorhome or any other vehicle, for that matter.
It needs some ground, of course. On my fiberglass motorhome, I found one of the stringers that goes all the way up and over the motorhome - something like a rollbar on a race car.
They're on there to keep the motorhome intact and are a structural part of the vehicle.
They're firmly attached to the frame; so they make a good ground. I located it with a stud finder; but any magnet would do the trick.
I drilled and tapped for a 5/16" fine-thread bolt. Drill just down over the eave of the roof where it is vertical.
Attach the braid of the coax there. The center of the coax is soldered anywhere on the copper pipe.
I used a couple of 2X4s on top of the motorhome and just glued them on there.
I used GE 5200, which any boater knows will stay (you'd need a sledge hammer to remove it).
Nobody sees it - who cares! On another vehicle, you might want to get a solid 1" rod (delrin or something like that) from a plastics place and drill and tap it and put it on with a 3/8" bolt.
I glued the PVC tubes into the 2X4s with the GE 5200. You can also drill a 1/8" hole into each side of the 2X4 and
through the PVC and then stick a piece of coat hanger in there to hold it -- just to make sure.
At the top of the PVC, I hollowed it out half-round so the copper pipe would just fit in there snugly so the top of the pipe was even with the top of the PVC tube.
Then, I put a #10 bolt all the way through and put a nut on it.
You could put 5 loading coils on if you want. I prefer to have only 3 to
leave a little more room between them. For each coil, you drill a 3/8" hole vertically through the copper pipe.
Then, you take a 3/8 x 24 bolt, stick it up through the hole and put a nut on it.
Leave another 3/8" of bolt sticking up so you can screw the loading coil onto that.
Now, you need one more addition. You need something to keep from squashing the copper pipe when you tighten down on the bolts.
What I did was get some thick-wall stainless steel tubing that was 3/8" I.D.
I cut pieces 3/4" long to make a nice fit inside the copper pipe. Of course, you have to round off each end to fit.
To get them in there, I took a piece of #14 soft copper wire, took a couple of turns around the fitting and then shoved it in the end of the tube and wiggled it into place so I could get the bolt through.
After the bolt is through, you can just pull the wire out and it will slide off that couple of turns.
Don't put too many turns, though, or it won't come off. Experiment first. Another way to do this is to get a piece of round stock
(plastic, wood, or metal) about 1" long that will fit inside the pipe.
Then, drill through both together. There are many ways to do it. Put an end cap on each end of the pipe and solder it.
After all is finished, take your caulking gun and seal everything. I ran a bead around the bottom of the
2x4s, where the PVC goes into the 2x4s, all over the top of the PVC including where the little bolts go through, and where the center of the coax is attached.
The various coils will inter-react slightly in tuning; so, be sure and remember which coil goes where and with which other coils.
I have my 3 favorite bands there all the time. If I change to another band, I always change the same one.
This way, whatever coil is in that position has already been tuned with those same 2 other coils.
NOTE: When I'm parked, I get out a much better signal by unscrewing the loading coil and inserting the regular 54" Hustler base section, then put the coil on top of it. It's certainly worth the trip up on the roof. I get between 1 and 2 S-units better signal.
HINT: Take a wooden clothes
pin and write "Hustler" on it. Clamp that onto the ignition
key. That will keep you from driving off with the extension up and
wrecking everything on the nearest tree.
PARTS LIST:
1 3/4" copper pipe (hard drawn) 54" long
2 3/4" pipe caps for above
2 1-1/4" PVC pipes 12" long
2 2x4s 7" long
3 1-1/2" 3/8x24 stainless steel bolts and nuts
3 3/8" ID stainless steel tubing 3/4" long
2 #10 bolts 1-1/2" long and nuts
Caulking compound / adhesive such as GE 5200
Wire or screw to secure tubing into 2x4s
1 5/16" fine-thread bolt and washer
1 Crimp connector for 5/16" ring by #8 wire
1 PL-259 connector and adapter for RG8X coax
Suitable length of RG8X coax cable
73,
Jack VE3EED